I often walk my dog past an old cement stairway at what used to be 1468 Raymond Av, in St Paul’s St Anthony Park neighborhood, but is now an empty lot. My mother was born in 1919 in the house that used to stand there (I learned this because I have old family letters bearing that address). I have a photograph of her being held by my grandmother, standing in front of an old frame house—standing on those same cement steps.
My grandfather was a Norwegian architect named Magnus Jemne, and my grandmother was a third generation German-English St Paulite named Elsa Laubach (later, Elsa Jemne). She was a painter and WPA muralist (the two surviving murals, of the fifteen she did, are in the Minneapolis armory and the Ely, Minnesota post office). They collaborated on the Women’s City Club (now Wold Engineering) at Kellogg and St Peter in St Paul, and on their two daughters, one of whom was my mother.
My grandmothers met each other in 1912 at art school in Philadelphia, kept in touch, and had a son and daughter who got married and had me. (My parents have the same middle name, named after the benifactress who helped both of my grandmothers through art school). While one couldn’t exactly call it an arranged marriage, it was about as close as one got to one in 20th century America. Call it an encouraged marriage.
My grandparents lived in the house on Raymond while the house he designed for them was being built at 212 Mt Curve Blvd in St Paul.
My mother lived in New York and San Francisco before marrying my dad and moving with him to Ithaca, Madison (where I was born) and Denver. They finally settled, when I was four, in Norman, Oklahoma, where he was a professor in the English department at the University of Oklahoma.
Thus did I find myself most summers and half of the winters between 1953 and 1963 traveling to St Paul to stay for a chunk of time with my grandparents. My dad would generally not go, so it was my older brother and my mother and I, in various combinations, who made the trip.
We went by train. On nights we were to leave, we would go to bed at our normal time, and then be awakened at about 11:00 pm to make the thirty-mile drive to Chickasha, Oklahoma. There, we would board the Rock Island Rocket at midnight, if it was on time. We would hit Kansas City at about nine that morning, and, after passing through Mason City, Iowa and Albert Lea, Minnesota, we’d roll into the St Paul depot at about six pm.
This decade coincided with the decline and disappearance of private railroads, and there was lots of evidence of decrepitude from the seat upholstery to the conductors’ uniforms to the rails to the engines to the rolling stock.
I remember that the dining car was run by the same dignified older white gentleman the entire time I made the trip, his uniform growing shabbier by the year. The rest of the train crew was an even mix of colors and ages.
When we would make the return trip, we would often be driven west ten miles to the Milwaukee Road depot in Minneapolis, the northerly origination point of the Rocket, so as to get window seats.
On one such occasion, when I was traveling alone—very timidly, at age 12—my grandmother had driven me to Minneapolis and gotten me settled into a window seat. I then walked with her to the door of the car, and when I returned to my seat, it had been occupied, innocently, by a black man of about sixty in a brown suit and a matching snap-brim hat. He looked very scary to this Okie white kid who had never been around blacks. (Although Norman was a university town, there were no black property owners at the time, and, in that year, you could count the black students at Oklahoma University on your fingers and toes, even if you were missing one. As unbelievable as that may seem, I have the Sooner yearbook to support this statement).
So, as the train pulled out of the station, the big black man looked back and forth between my grandmother jumping up and down and gesturing animatedly but indecipherably on the platform and me, standing in the aisle of the car watching her (I assume she was imploring me to speak up for myself and tell the man he was in my seat). After a few seconds, he furrowed his brows and arched one of them and asked, “What’s she sayin’?” I mumbled something about addlepatedness and settled in to the aisle seat.
The man traveled as far as Kansas City, and, in that eight hours, he proved to be a very nice gentleman. And when he got off, I got his—rather, my—window seat.
This was the first time in my life I had ever communicated with anyone of color, save the descendants of the Five Civilized Tribes who populated and, amazingly (given what they had been through and the hopeless terrain onto which they had been unceremoniously deposited) flourished in my home state. Their relative prosperity was, I assume, thanks to their aforementioned “civilization”, and to the discovery of oil on their land. Literally most of the residents of Oklahoma were—and probably still are—part Indian, and no one thought anything of it. Black-segregated restrooms in local stores were the order of the day, however, and I remember them well. And if a store didn’t have segregated bathrooms and drinking fountains, then there simply were no facilities for blacks (largely moot, this, because there were virtually no blacks, as already mentioned).
Coming to Minnesota on vacation was the high point of my year, hands down. The weather was cool, there were trees and lakes, my grandparents had a wonderful house, and they owned a cabin on Big Sandy Lake (which I now own). My grandfather’s drafting table and my grandmother’s studio were in their house, and King Pharmacy up on the corner of St Clair and Cretin had candy I couldn’t get in Oklahoma. And, of course, the whole shebang started with a train trip. What was not to like?
Thus was it not a surprise to find myself living here, after stints as a professional musician in Arkansas, Oklahoma and Nashville. Thirty-five years later, I’ve got a Minnesota wife and a couple of Minnesota children and hold, I hope by now, honorary Minnesota citizenship. I’ve also known many more black people.